ต้นไม้ (Dton Mai=Tree)

Upon arrival at Wat Bonpong, the three of us said our farewells to the other monks, and to the lay people that drove us. I thanked them for all their care and consideration of me, and I was honored to have met them all. Leang instructed me to sit at a table in the shade to wait while he and Jerry went to visit the Abbot to inform him of our arrival and pay their respects to him.

When they came back, I followed them to an outdoor covered area of the temple where Leang introduced me to a man he calls ‘Pa’. I learned that when Leang lived here, this man, his wife and their family became very close to Leang and were a second family to him. As a young man, and now a monk, Leang studied diligently at the temple in his small village. He really wanted to study at a higher level than the education available to him in Cambodia, and so the Abbot in his village advised him to contact the Abbot here at Wat Bonpong. The Abbot here accepted him as his student and invited him to come live at this temple and learn about Buddhism. Leang enthusiastically accepted, and he bravely ventured away from his small village and the world he knew in Cambodia. He moved to an entirely new and very different country to pursue Buddhism here in Thailand.

He said he was very nervous about this, since he never has traveled much in his life. At Wat Bonpong, Leang was younger than both the Abbot and the one other monk living there. As strong as he was in his Buddhist beliefs, he still was a bit scared and alone at first. Ma and Pa helped him not feel this way while being so far away from his own family. The looked after him and became quite close to him. Leang told me that when he lived here before, he had even went with Ma on a trip to visit her family in Bangkok as well as relatives in the north of Thailand. Ma and Pa also took Leang to visit Chiang Mai when he was applying to the university at Wat Suan Dok, and requesting to live at his current temple Wat Phan Aon. Leang's sister in Cambodia has even come to this village and stayed with Ma and Pa while Leang lived here. They are very important to him; he cares about them a great deal.

On the bus from Laos, Leang had called and asked them if I could stay with them while we were in this village for the Songkran Festival. They said they were happy to have me and welcomed me with open arms. They welcomed a foreigner and stranger into their home with no questions asked based on the love and trust they have for Leang. I immediately loved them for this, and grew to love them for so much more.

This is a photo of Leang standing by the entrance of Ma and Pa's house. In the background of the photo is the entrance to the Wat Banpong; as you can see it is just across the street.

When I first arrived, Ma was in Bangkok visiting family, but she called that first night and asked for Leang to translate a welcome message to me, and ask me to stay long enough for her to arrive back in the village because she can’t wait to meet me. We arrived at the begining of April into the village, and Ma was to come back around the 10th.

The monks took me to Ma and Pa's home where I would be staying. They had to translate for Pa and I about arrangements for me, and making me feel welcome. Pa was also very concerned about what I like to eat. I discovered there is a noodle soup lady down the street. But Leang told Pa for me that I love noodle soup and rice soup. Funny...the weather is so hot in Asia, but I really like soup! I asked the monks to tell him I will eat anything they make, and I am happy to try everything, and I don't want to cause trouble or make them worry if I would like something. Besides, I know the types of food I have already tried, but there are so many dishes I have no experience with….maybe I will love other food more than the noodle soup? Only one way to find out! Pa was so kind to me and I just want things to be easy for them while allowing me stay with them.

Before dinner at the house, I decided to go for a walk and let Leang and Jerry settle into their rooms at the temple and take a rest.. It had been a long day for all of us, and I could see they were exhausted. Monks just aren't accustomed to this much activity!

On the other hand...I wanted to explore the area.

Bonpong was so different from the places I had been to so far in my travels. In Ton Sai, it was a small place too, but it was based on tourism due to the climbing and the island beaches in the south. There are hundreds of climbers that trickle though Ton Sai every season, not to mention Railey Beach next door with tourists by the boat load.

This village is not like that at all, it is rural because there is no tourism. Korat, which is the city about a half hour from here along the highway is an industrial center. The majority of Thailand’s factories are located in this region. They are so numerous I cannot even begin to list all the varieties but some are rice production, car manufacturers, silk factories, gem factories, computer factories, even tire factories. Miles and miles of the highway are lined with these never ending buildings that provide the nations exports.
Bonpong is so different even from everywhere I have been. It is a diamond in the ruff. I wandered the dirt paths and streets. Every turn I took, the landscape became more and more breathtaking.

I walked past farms with livestock; chickens, ducks, pigs, water buffalo. In this photo, a man is moving his water buffalo from one field to another to graze.

There are a couple of lakes and rivers nearby that the community will fish at. The people hang the nets on bamboo when not using them to keep them from tangling or tearing.

I began walking down a path approaching houses and less farms. On my way I passed this man who had just finished fishing in one of the streams by a farm, and he had collected some herbs to cook the fish with.

The pinkish-purple plant in his hand is the flower from a banana tree. It is used to make a delicious curry...so good!

While nearing houses I realized there began to be people gathering in the streets staring at me. I was new here so I wasn't sure how people would react to my coming here. I was a bit afraid of them being unhappy of entry into this precious little community. I was worried they would think I’m ruining their culture by just my presence here. Songkran is the most important Buddhist holiday and I wasn't sure if they would feel I was intruding, or dishounoring their traditions with my presence. In my little world inside of my head it is great to be a traveler, but you never know how you will be received by locals when invading their homes and villages. Leang and Jerry had reassured me they I am welcome, but still. On one rare occasion in Bangkok I once wandered into a part of town where there were no tourists. A little girl running stopped dead in her tracks when seeing me, and dropped the small bag of ice she was carrying. She just stared. I smiled and waved to her and kept walking. She was as motionless as a statue. Next, I stopped at a food stall to get a snack and immediately the woman yelled 'No speak English! Go!' I then proceeded to answer her in Thai apologizing, and saying I just wanted some dang muong (watermelon). She was surprised, and gave it to me. I paid and left, but it bothered me all day of how ill mannered she was. I wasn't accustomed to this, and I sure didn't like it. This is for sure not the normal behavior of the Thai people I had encountered in my travels, but still…it happened…and I was terribly worried it would happen again here in Bonpong, the uncertainty was making me feel ill. After our Laos experience, my thinking was a bit skewed as well...the people are not as nice there as Thailand, but you spend that much time around people like that and you begin to think that’s how people are everywhere.

This is not at all how Bonpong turned out to be. The people were lining the streets to see me because they were interested in me. When the two old women in the photo saw me taking pictures, they clearly didn’t understand what I was doing, so I showed them the photo I just took and they became excited. They spoke rapidly in Thai and I suppose they had never seen a digital camera before. They wanted me to take their photo and they posed for a few pictures. After taking it, I showed them, and they thanked me profusely. How different!! How wonderful!

This village is amazing. After visiting so much of SE Asia, I really have gained an appreciation for this place. It is beautiful. The sunrises and sunsets were my favorite time of day in Bonpong. Staggeringly beautiful every time. As I was walking it began to grow darker, and I knew I needed to get back to the house for dinner. I was so eager to see everything that I really thought it would be a pity to turn around and go back the same way. So I kept walking hoping that maybe the streets would connect up. I walked around a bend, and came to this rubble. It was once someone’s home, but has been reduced to what you see in this photo. Not sure the story behind it, but it was breathtakingly gorgeous. I feel lucky to have had the opportunity to have taken this photo at sunset.

Bonpong is a very small village, with a simple way of life. The more I saw of it, the more I realized this. Much of Asia is this way; unfortunately, tourists rarely see this type of lifestyle while visiting Asia. I was so happy to be here! I immediately loved this village.

The road I was walking did indeed connect up with the road near the temple, which is where Ma and Pa live. I took this photo before going in for dinner.

Pa and Ma have a small grandson named Nan who is living with them for awhile. When Leang, Jerry and I first arrived, Nan immediately took a liking to Jerry. I learned that for awhile now, he had been telling Ma and Pa that he wants to be a Novice, and then a monk someday.

The first night we arrived after calling Ma in Bangkok, Leang, Jerry and I were visiting with Pa, and Nan came out from having a shower. He got his blanket and approached Jerry and held it out to him. Jerry took the blanket and smiled not really knowing what the small boy wanted. He held it out in front of him. Nan began to wrap himself in it. We all started laughing and realized what he was doing after we saw the way he was winding it around himself. He wanted Jerry to dress him up as a monk…so cute!

The next day, Pa and I woke up early to give alms to the monks.

The monks walk barefoot through the paths of the village at 6am, and the lay people come outside and offer rice to them in their alms bowls. The Abbot is the one in the front in this photo. Then the monks return to the temple, and set aside the rice. They then clean the temple, and care for the plants and animals that take refuge there. I'm not sure if I mentioned this before in an earlier blog or not...but I distinctly remember thinking about it while in Ayutthaya, that at all the temples I had visited it SE Asia, there are always animals at the temples. Perhaps it is because the monks care for them and do not harm them. But Nan back in Chiang Mai says they were monks in past lives, and they come to the temples to look after their friends and guide the novices to make good choices. The monks are kind to the animals, and one time I remember one of my monk students waiting for me at Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai. As I approached, I realized he was talking to one of the dogs the same as I would talk to a friend. I asked him what he was saying, and he said it is his friend, and he was telling him about the exam he had that day, and how he felt he did. I have grown to really love this quality in the monks, I talk to animals all the time and they listen. In Sukkothai I was riding my bicycle and I passed a temple where there was a mixed group of dogs, cats, and even a few chickens laying in the shade under a Buddha statue. I stopped my bicycle and just stared and laughed. What a combo! Here at Wat Banpong, there are a few dogs and cats living at the temple. Near one of the buildings quite a few pigeons live, and there will be a group of them all over the ground, and a cat will casually be laying among them totally relaxed and basking in the sunshine.

There are only 2 monks that live at this temple full time: the Abbot, and one other monk. They both lived here when Leang lived here before, so they were all so happy to be reunited during our stay. During this time there is the Abbot (Achan), the other resident monk, Leang, Jerry, and 2 other visiting monks from another city a few hours away. The Abbot requested the 2 monks to come assist him here during Songkran festival, just as he did with Leang. Songkran is the Buddhist New Year, and it is very busy at the temples throughout SE Asia. I was so excited to be here at such a special time! Leang told me to relax and enjoy myself while we are here, but informed me that he and the other monks would be very busy in the coming weeks to prepare the temple and make ceremonies for the lay people during this time. I was prepared for this and would do my best to help as much as I could, or conversely, stay out of their way if I couldn’t help.

Every morning after the monks clean the temple grounds, care for the plants and animals, the lay people would come and bring food and water around 7am.

The food would be anything the lay people can offer: curries, fish, meats, eggs, fruit, deserts, bread...etc.

Then we would all gather in the breakfast hall, and we would show respects to Buddha, then the monks would come and sit on a raised stage in the front of the room. Us lay people would then show respects to them, and follow them in chanting the 5 precepts in the Pali language. After we are finished chanting, the monks would eat in silence.

Pali is the language of ancient language of Buddhism. By having these precepts in this language, as well as the teachings of Buddhism, it stays true in form. Monks sometimes study the Pali language aside from the teachings, and then can be certified to speak and write in Pali. This language is very complex, time consuming, and very difficult from what the monks have told me about it. The Abbot has studied Pali and has taken the Buddhist exams to be qualified as an interpreter. Leang has taken the first 3 exams, but still has more to go.

The 5 precepts are as follows....and it took me a few days and the help of the monks, but, yes I have them memorized in Pali! Woo-Hoo!

The five precepts (pañca-sikkhāpada) or five virtues (pañca-sīla) in:

Pali
1. Pāṇātipātā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi.
2. Adinnādānā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi.
3. Kāmesu micchācāra veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi.
4. Musāvāda veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi.
5. Surā-meraya-majja-pamādaṭṭhānā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi.

English
1. I undertake the training rule to abstain from taking life.
2. I undertake the training rule to abstain from taking what is not given.
3. I undertake the training rule to abstain from sexual misconduct today.
4. I undertake the training rule to abstain from false speech.
5. I undertake the training rule to abstain from drinks and drugs that cause heedlessness.

This is a photo all of us lay people were sitting outside of the building while the monks are eating. You don't have to leave while they eat, but if you stay it is normally respectful to not speak. Also you cannot point your feet at the front of the room, especially not at Buddha, or the monks. So when sitting you can straighten your legs after the monks leave our presence, but while there it gets uncomfortable after a while so we would often go outside to stretch a bit. The entire breakfast events are usually over by 9am. So we start the daily process with alms at 6am, but the sitting with legs tucked is from 7-9am, so you can see why a nice stretch while the monks are eating feels so great!

Also traditionally the monks would leave the building when they are finished eating, and the lay people would then gather and bring the food from the stage down to the floor where we sit, and we would all eat what is left of the food. The following photo shows us all gathered on the floor eating breakfast. Pa is in the yellow shirt, and Nan is the little boy in red.

There was always so much to go around. It's a great way for the community to pool together to make sure everyone has enough. However because this is a small temple, and I was there; breakfast usually became a time when Leang would translate questions the Abbot, monks or villagers had for me.

Nan, Nongkim, and I sharing fruit.

This is one of the wonderful, and beautiful old women of the village. She looked so pretty with the flower in her hair that I asked if I could take her photo; they all were more than happy and thanked me profusely if I took photos.

That first morning when Pa took me to breakfast, I was surrounded by the old women and the children. They all were so happy to see me, touching my arms and face. They couldn't get over how beautiful they think my skin is because it is so much whiter than theirs. Funny how that works...they want white skin, western people want tans. Leang and Jerry always laughed, and were translating for me.

All day, every day, and any day that there were old women of the village were near me, they swooned constantly. 'Dton Mai con Suay!!!!!' they would say. That means they think I am beautiful. They taught all the children to say it too.

This is a place where the older people may never have seen a person with white skin before, or if they had, it was long ago. I would say also that the younger children had never seen a foreigner in person, only on TV. The people that may have seen a farang before, is the age group between 22-40 since many of them work in the city and are more likely to see one now and again. But it’s still unlikely they have had a conversation with one before.

The little children immediately followed me around and loved me. There was one little 2 year old girl that particularly adored me. She would smile huge and giggle when she saw me. That first day she was so shy but her great-grandmother was very encouraging to her to come to me. Her name is Nongkim. She would sneak and touch my arm or bracelets ever so lightly, and giggle if I noticed.

Nongkim and her sweet great-grandmother; I think she is in her late 90's now. She taught Nongkim how to say 'Dton Mai con Suay!' hahaha. Nongkim's mother works in the city, so everyday either her grandmother or her great-grandmother will babysit her.

She's the most adorable little girl who brightened my everyday with her company. She would come to the temple and see me and giggle and run to me. We instantly developed a bond and became very fond of each other.

During all this, the Abbot was amused, and so happy to have me there. He made a joke (that Leang and Jerry translated) when during that first breakfast he told one of the old women to open the school, because Dton Mai is here and the children can learn English now. The entire room laughed and was happy for me to be there. On the weekly Buddhist holiday (every 7th day) the number of people that attend the temple for breakfast increases exponentially. On the first one I was present for; the Abbot wanted me to give a speech to the people about myself, and my impression of this temple and the village. I was so shy but with the help of the monks, I was able to convey my journey and my heartfelt thanks to these kind people who have welcomed me into their home, village and place of worship. There was so much excitement from the children about English (in Thai they say sanskit) language, and I reassured them all that I was more than happy to teach anyone who wanted to learn from me.

This is the common area and the monks set up a sting system for the festival where they are all connected together and then connected to the Buddha statue at the far side of the building. The net has strings hanging from it, and the monks wind the stings up into little bundles for a ceremony during Songkran.

I really needed to email some people and inform them of my change in plans. Last I told anyone was that I would be going to Vietnam 3 days ago. Being in Thailand again, sure is not what was planned, and so they needed to know. Jerry told me that the resident monk has a computer set up in the common area outside that I can use. He connects it to his cell phone for internet. It for sure looks like a bit of a fire hazard, but it worked.

In this photo, Jerry is checking his email and Leang is standing nearby. Right after this photo was taken, Jerry told me he had some bad news. His mother emailed him and told him his sister's family was having some problems. He spent the next 2 hours on the phone trying to figure out what happened and what to do. The result ended up being that he was going to leave immediately for Cambodia to see if he can help his family through these difficult times. His village was about 3 days away if he hurried, and Songkran was approaching. Songkran is such a huge event in these Buddhist countiries; travel is near impossible during the festival. If he was going to make it, he needed to leave straight away.

It was so sad to see him leave; he didn't want to go, but his family needed him, so we all supported his decision.

As a monk, you don't have an income of money. Yet to attend university as a Thai monk, you can attend for free. As a Cambodian monk like Leang, or Jerry you have to pay fees for classes. Not much to a western person, maybe $50 per semester, but to a monk that's huge. Songkran is a time when the community makes good merit, and it is when the largest influx of money is donated to temples. The money the Abbot will then budget for the rest of the year to pay for things, supplies, travel, festivals, education, guests and visitors, electricity, cell phones and so forth. The Abbots give money to the resident or visiting monks for travel expenses when going home, and this is not required, but it is common. The Abbot at Wat Bongpong (Achan) gave Jerry 700Bhat ($20) to get him home and help to get him back to Chiang Mai. In Thailand as a monk, you can ride the train for free, buses will be roughly half price, but in Cambodia, this is not the case. Jerry will have to pay his expenses while traveling there, and will most likely have to take the bus since time is limited for this travel. The plan for Leang and Jerry in coming to Wat Bonpong, was to assist Achan here with the festival, and in turn Achan always gives a monetary gift to the monks that they then budget throughout the year for school fees, phone cards, snacks, travel, transportation, visas, food while traveling, toiletries, pens, paper, dictionaries, books, and anything else that they need for school or daily life. Aside from goods that the community members donate, they often also donate money. This can be done with money trees where you can attach money to a fake tree, or give directly into their alms bowls, or in envelopes, or you can offer it directly to the Abbot. It is also an option to donate to the monks directly where a ceremony is held, and you offer the money from your family and give it to the Abbot. The Abbot then will divide it equally between all the monks that attended the ceremony. All of this included is so important since this festival only comes once a year. The monks basically don't receive money the rest of the year. Money for monks is so tight, that while in Chiang Mai Leang hadn't spoken on the phone to his mother in more than 6 months. He hadn't been home in a year and a half since it is so expensive. Before we left on this trip, I bought him a phone card and we called her and told her he was coming home. She cried from happiness. As a Cambodian monk, they have to buy a student visa for Thailand, and it lasts a year. If they leave Thailand with out paying for a re-entry visa which is $30 USD each time, then they loose their visa for school, and will only be issued a 14 day visa upon entry of Thailand. So they are allowed to leave, but they have to spend an additional $30 before they exit Thailand each time. Not only that, but Cambodian monks have to spend even more money to apply for a new yearly student visa.

To add some perspective, Leang received roughly $500 USD during Songkran. Jerry going home means that he was missing out on this opportunity for this money that he would desperately need in order to return to Thailand, and to attend classes at Wat Suan Dok. I was so worried about him. I bought him a $300 Bhat phone card to call his mom and make arrangements and to let her know when he would be arriving. Leang gave him 700 Bhat ($20 USD) for travel. I sure hope he has enough money to get back to Chiang Mai now.

After Jerry departed, I began to write some emails. I didn't get far however, because my fan club showed up and demanded attention. This is me sitting in front of the computer. When I turned around this group of little girls had gathered and were looking at my photos over my shoulder on the computer and giggling. They began to ask me all sorts of questions of how to say things in English, and colors, numbers, everything. They spoke no English at this point, and my Thai was very limited. We all spent a few hours in the afternoon teaching each other almost every day. I am so totally down with my colors in Thai now. I learned the colors in Thai so much faster than they learned them in English. What’s up with that?!

Ma showed up the next afternoon while I was in the shower. Leang had been so busy preparing and cleaning the temple that he forgot to tell me she was coming early. I was just getting out of the shower when she was in the living room cleaning. I jumped and almost dropped my towel. She doesn't speak English (no one but Leang now) so I wasn't sure if it was Ma or if it was a friend or maybe a family member of theirs.

I went to the temple and asked Leang, and he immediately went to the house to find out. It was Ma! He was so happy to see her, and she him. She paid her respects by bowing on the ground in front of him 3 times. Then she gave me a hug and welcomed me into her home. She wanted to make sure I was comfortable and happy in her home, that she canceled her plans in Bangkok where she was visiting her daughter and grandchildren and came home a week early to be with me! What a wonderful woman. Never in my life had I met someone like Ma or Pa that are as completely self-less as them. When I think back about them now, and how kind they were to me, it makes me start to cry from missing them.

While in Bonpong, Pa and Ma welcomed me into their home with open arms; feeding me, caring for me and worrying about me all the time. If I thought the monks cared about me a lot, boy, oh, boy, this was a whole new level of loving kindness. In fact, the more people I met in this village, the more I realized that these people are all so incredibly welcoming and loving. Never have I been to such a warm, and wonderful community before.

That night Ma made a delicious dinner for us all...man I wished I could speak more Thai so I could have learned to cook more from her!

This is Ma preparing to give alms early the next morning. Everyday the sunrises were spectacular, tropical and wonderful.

As you can see, no Jerry in this photo.

So much more to come....

NE Thailand

Before I begin this blog entry, I would like to make special note of a few things. Most of you know by now that the events since the last entry have been very impacting on me. Much has happened, and not all of it easy. I will need to use multiple entries to write about these things. Further, the events have back stories that explain their importance to me. Be prepared for tangents after every turn, for if I simply lay out the events in a time line, you will not be able to comprehend the significance they had upon me, so stick with it, and happy reading.

Once over the border from Laos and in to Thailand, I immediately noticed a difference in the attitudes of the people and how wonderful it felt to be back in Thailand! Although we were traveling through Laos for nearly a month, and while being a great experience, I really had missed Thailand. Throughout the duration of time I spent in SE Asia, I had spent the largest quantity of time in Thailand, becoming accustomed to the language, the street signs, the music, the food, the style of markets, the transportation, the people...it had become my home away from home, and it was easy for me to live and get by here. It was sure nice to be back again!

Leang and I took a 6 hour bus ride from the border town near Laos to Korat, Thailand.

But before I delve into our journey further, let me give you all a bit of background information on Leang (and traveling with him), so while reading this, your head won't spin as much. That photo of him I had taken in Chiang Mai during meditation. Guess he's better at it than me...there I was taking photos, when I'm supposed to be meditating too! Hahaha! But honestly, I think I've become quite good at it now.

Leang first became a novice in Cambodia, where he studied diligently, and was eventually ordained as a monk while only 19. Once a monk and seeking further education, he left Cambodia to move to a rural village in north-eastern Thailand, called Bonpong. The temple that he moved to is Wat Bonpong, and by bus it is 30 minutes south from Korat. He lived there for a little more than a year, and then to finish high school, his studies took him to Korat, which is the second largest city in Thailand. After studying in Korat, and having a desire for higher education, he moved to Chiang Mai where he currently resides at Wat Phan Aon, and now attends the Buddhist university of Wat Suan Dok.

This is Leang walking across the lawn at Wat Suan Dok, back in Chiang Mai.


Wat Bonpong, located in a small village, is where we were headed to help the Abbot with Songkran; the Buddhist New Year festival.

While on buses, monks are required to sit in the back row of the bus as to protect them from lay people bumping into them while walking through the isle-way. If the back row of the bus is full, they are seated in a window seat toward the back of the bus; next to a man in the isle seat. It is forbidden for them to sit next to a woman. Because of this, Leang and I are always separate while on buses. Sometimes it's a short ride; maybe 3 hours, sometimes its longer; maybe 10 hours. We usually just pretended that we don't know each other altogether because it's easier this way, as to prevent people giving him critical glances. Leang cares greatly what people think of him, as do all the monks; and by us behaving in this manner he is able to stay more relaxed and peaceful. The community support and high regard for the monks allows them to continue the life style they have chosen, thus the lay people's acceptance is crucial to them. Monks just aren't used to people getting upset with them or around them. I tried to protect him from as much of that pollution as I could while traveling with him. Remember in the last blog I mentioned me haggling with the tuk-tuk and taxi drivers over the cost of things while I would make Leang (and the novices) go for a walk? This was the best option for those situations no matter how much he wanted to help me. He always worries about me, they all do. However, those of you who know me, also know that I am strong and opinionated. I try to do what is right and I try to look after those whom I care about. Monks simply don't understand why someone would treat them poorly, lie to them, or cheat them. They are not accustomed to ill manners, bad tempers, and criticism. Call it naive if you want, but I like to call it honest and trusting. Further, monks do take taxis and tuk-tuks to and from their temples to school, or special ceremonies. Often they walk but if they do need to take a taxi, they try to travel with other monks. In cities there are usually devote Buddhist taxi drivers that park near temples and will provide reasonable or reduced prices for the monks and often free transportation. They live in those cities, and most likely they worship and practice meditation at that temple that they park their taxis near. However, while traveling, a monk is out of his element, and the poor things have no idea what fair prices of things are. For example, one morning, I walked up to Leang trying to buy noodle soup at a stand in Laos and they were asking for 20,000 Kip, which is roughly 90 Bhat (Thai)!!! In Thailand the noodle soup is 20 Bhat; roughly 50 cents, so this price was astronomical! I couldn't believe it. I looked at him said no and to follow me. He did, and I took him to another restaurant where the owners made good merit and he ate for free. The entire day he kept mentioning how terrible it was for the first people to try to do that. He was shocked, he had no idea someone would do that and try to trick him that way. I was shocked he didn't understand that in Asia, the people trying to sell you things are trying to get as much money outta you as possible, while we are trying to get the goods for as cheap as possible. He had no clue. So I always make him go for a walk while I do the dirty work. It's a lay persons business, no need for a monk to get involved.

Now back to our regularly scheduled program...

Since we travel in this fashion where we are separate; when the bus stops for restroom breaks or food, I will buy Leang something to drink and make a good merit offering in the normal customary way you offer something to a monk. I buy things like this for him because it is looked down upon for a monk to purchase things aside from water; it is assumed that they get what they need at their temples. Traveling is hard on monks, they only can eat 2 times per day and lunch is finished before noon. Usually lay people will make offerings to them of food and water, but if the bus stops late for lunch, they cannot eat. Thus when it stops, and I know Leang is hungry or thirsty I buy him something besides water; something that has calories in it like soy milk, or juice. However, often was the case, it would be Pepsi because he really likes it, and then I wouldn't feel so bad eating all the delicious foods just a few rows ahead of him at all hours of the day.

So point being, we decided before leaving Chiang Mai that if there wasn't another tourist, or other monks with us where we could speak publicly in a group, then its best if we behave as if we don't know each other while in public.

Leang sucked at this by the way!

He worries about me too much…take the Myanmar story of how all the monks called me endlessly during my visa run trip…now amplify that by 1 million and you may start to understand how Leang tries to be in charge of situations and worries obsessively. Because after all…he is a man and men have a hard time believing that a woman can do just fine on her own-just ask my dad how he feels about me being in Asia so long! Hahaha. Leang would get comfortable in the fact that he knows many Thai and Lao people don't speak English well enough to understand everything he says. He would be in the back of the bus and if I turned around and nonchalantly glanced at him to see how he is doing he would say something like 'So, how about you? Are you hungry? Are you going to get something at the next stop?'
I would bolt around so fast and pretend like he wasn't talking to me. I mean what am I supposed to do? Either I'm a badly behaved 'farang' that ignores a monk talking to her, or if I answer him, then I'm a naughty temptress 'farang' that the monk is being enchanted by. Leang and I had many talks about this. Either we are talking or we aren't while on the buses. Not this half-way, just-seeing-how-you-are-doing, business. It makes my head whirl!

Further, his questions always revolved around food, wondering if I was thirsty or hungry of if I wanted something. I swear, any time I talk to a monk in the evening time, the first thing they always ask is about dinner if I have eaten or not yet, or what it was I had. I'm pretty sure this is because they only have 2 meals a day; they don't decide what they eat; just whatever is offered. So when I talk to them and they ask these things it always makes me laugh, they must be hungry and they don't want me to feel that way too. All of the monks and novices I have met really are so very thoughtful and always concerned about me, but it’s still funny.

On this bus ride back into Thailand, I didn't have time to go to the ATM and withdraw Thai Bhat because we were scrambling to make the bus as it was; therefore all I had was Laos Kip.

The way it works when taking a local bus is that they make frequent stops and sometimes you don't stop for a scheduled meal like the VIP buses do. VIP buses don't stop frequently like this, so they have more flexibility in their schedules to stop for longer. On local buses, when the bus stops at a busy bus station, there are people that sell drinks and food and will get on the bus trying to sell these things to you. This is not organized by the bus station, just all individual vendors, but it's nice because you don't have to worry about hurrying to go buy something before your bus leaves, maybe with out you. Besides, if you have to go to the toilet, you usually only have time either to go to the toilet, or to go buy something to eat...not both. So these people enter the bus, walk down the isles selling things, then exit. Off to the toilet you go, and then when back on the bus and settled, you can now purchase something to eat, stress-free.

So what did Leang do??? Oh yeah....he totally did. He bought mango slices in the evening which of course made people look at him funny for buying food after lunch time. Then he shouted the 6 seats forward to me and said, I thought you must be hungry since you don't have any money so I bought you your favorite; mango. Then he asked a Thai guy to get up and give it to me. Really….he did that. Of COURSE the Thai guy can’t honestly say ‘no’ to a monk’s request, for that would be heinous on his Karma. Yeah...I'm sure it looks like we don't know each other now. REEEAAAL DISCRETE Leang. Further, how does my Karma look when a MONK buys ME food?!?! No big deal to him or I, on this trip we exchanged money back and forth between us depending on how we paid for things, but still...imagine what it looks like to everyone else?! I was humiliated.

On a side note while thinking about this situation I realize that pretty much every man important to me is always trying to make me fat! When my long-time boyfriend and I broke up a few years back I dropped a bit of weight off, he was always wanting to go out to dinner, and cook new recipes. It was wonderful, but I for sure lost weight after we ended things. (Chris-remember the lasagna we always made...oh MAN it was good!) Close guy friends also made me gain weight. Brad, I know you're reading this! When you and Kristen started dating, I lost like 5 lbs! (Mmmm...sushi nights!) My roommate Dan is probably one of the most enthusiastic people about food that I have ever met, especially my cooking. It is dangerous being home too much! And let's not forget dear old dad-amazing cook by the way, even while here in Asia he is telling me to hurry home so he can make me a home made cheesecake.....A CHEESECAKE!!!
Yuummmm!!!

But I swear...you all want to roll me off in a wheelbarrow!
Mmmm.....cheesecake...

So we finally arrived into the Korat bus station after dark, and when the bus was unloading there was a monk standing by the door waiting. As I approached the door to get off the bus I realized who it was...Jerry!!

This is a photo from Chiang Mai at the Sunday Dharma Talk that Leang gives. Some of his friends will often be guest speakers and this particular week it was Lout that was the orator. In this photo, Lout is kneeling down, and Jerry is the monk standing.

Jerry and Lout are also Cambodian monks from Chiang Mai, and they are both two of Leang's closest friends. Jerry has a brother he had been visiting not far from this area of Thailand. Leang spoke to him on the phone during the bus ride and asked if he wanted to come with us to the rural temple for a couple days. I was so surprised to see him; it was a completely random and wonderful to see a familiar and happy face. I really missed all the monks in Chiang Mai that I worked with, and it made me so happy to have him with us!

On a side note, throughout the time I spent in this part of Thailand, only these Chiang Mai monks and I speak English. My Thai is limited, so I relied on them heavily for translation and to teach me more Thai. If they weren't with me, I had to resort to cave-man style communication with the people around me...oh yeah....it totally happened MANY times! But slowly I was learning more and more.

Mmmm.....cheesecake...
Since it was too late to go to Wat Bonpong that evening, Leang phoned his other old temple in the city of Korat and we were granted permission from his old Abbot to stay there for the night. The monks that still live there from when Leang lived there were thrilled to see him again, and it was a very warm welcome for the 3 of us. The Abbot granted me permission to stay at the temple also, but in a separate building across the courtyard from the monk’s quarters. The room I stayed in was a small meeting room that is being used as a storage room currently. It was perfect for me!

The monks figured I must be hungry once Leang told them I hadn't been to an ATM and haven't had dinner yet. So they called a lay person that is a friend of theirs who lives by the temple, and sent him to the market to buy me food. They discussed all of this in Thai, and I had no idea what they were talking about. I just thought they were all talking about their travels and telling stories. I was in my own world just relaxing, until next think I knew a man comes up to where we are sitting by the monks rooms and they bustle around getting dishes and water and utensils for me and then arranging the food in front of me. And they stared at me in anticipation. I couldn't help but laugh....I wasn't even thinking about food, and here it was being put before me with out me having a clue! And guess what it was???? NOODLE SOUP! Woo-Hoo!! Thai style also! I'm telling ya, those monks sure look after me!

I always feel bad eating in front of them in the evenings when they cannot...but they say they're used to it, no big deal...but I still feel bad regardless.

The next day, I got some pretty strange/curious looks from the novices at this temple when I came out of the bathroom after having a shower. I was completely dressed, with my hair in a towel, but I’m sure they were wondering who I was or what I was doing staying there. Traditionally women are not allowed to stay at temples, unless given express permission by the Abbot. I was, but still it was for sure out of the ordinary, and it created interest.

After cleaning up and having breakfast (that the monks prepared for me) I then wandered up and down the streets to try and buy some clothing. After about an hour of searching and not finding much, I returned to the temple discontented. Jerry asked what was troubling me, and I simply said I needed to buy some clothes that were appropriate for the small village temple, since I know that it is old fashioned in customs. Leang, Jerry and some of the other monks began speaking for a bit, then, Jerry told me to pack up my bags and get ready to leave. I was so worried and tried to tell him I needed clothing first. He said he understands and to get ready. So I did.

Next thing I know, a man that is a dedicated Buddhist man and a friend of the monks there, his wife, and their small son had arrived with their truck. I was told to get in the cab of the truck, and then the 5 monks grabbed my bags, and climbed into the back of the pick-up. I had no idea where we were going since the family didn’t speak English, and the monks forget to translate for me sometimes, but I wasn’t too worried…this is how things often happened for me in Asia…you just go with it.
We pulled into a Tesco-Lotus parking lot, and we all got out of the truck.

The monks started walking into the store, and the woman motioned for me to follow them, so I did, and the family stayed in the truck. Tesco-Lotus is similar to Wal-Mart, it is a giant market with everything from food, clothing, household items. It’s big. Mostly in Thailand people shop in small markets, but sometimes when needing to buy a lot, they do go to the Tesco-Lotus. The monks walked to the women’s clothing sections and stood there looking at me expectantly. I said ‘Oh!’ and began looking around. As I wandered though the clothing, the small novice boy that is 13 began to follow me and pulled things off of racks that he approved of and wanted me to try on. So cute! The rest of the monks went to the other part of the store and bought things for us to take to the village like water, Leang wanted sunscreen (Now that he knows about it hahahaha!!!) orange juice, and Nescafe (very difficult for some reason to get real coffee in SE Asia). I settled on a few shirts, but I couldn’t seem to find pants/shorts that fit me properly. It’s really difficult in all over this region for farang women to buy pants that fit. If I were a bit thinner and shorter, no problem, but as a western woman, it is near impossible. I have looked in every country I have been to, and so far, I end up wearing the fisherman’s pants that I bought in Ton Sai for climbing in.

Another big issue was finding a bra. I really needed one, since I only had my sports bras and swim suit top. I had a regular bra that I bought while in Malaysia, but it has since been used to the max; it was time for a new one. After what seemed like hours searching through the isles trying to find one that fit my rib-cage AND chest…the sales girl informed me, in broken English, that they don’t have my size-I’m too big. She actually said ‘whan’ which in Thai means ‘fat’. I didn’t know what to do…I couldn’t find one in Laos either. If I wish I would have brought two things from home, it would be another pair of pants, and more bras. It’s near impossible to find them that fit properly here. I have been here so long, and have searched so many places, I’ve decided it’s impossible, and I gave up.
I purchased my things and we headed out again.

We stopped at a new temple being built off of the highway, it was a bit too touristy and commercialized for my tastes, but apparently has become popular with the community. It is huge...and beautiful, but it really seemed like a theme park style, not a Buddhist temple; the monk’s agreed.




After about an hour walking around the temple complex, the monks and I retreated to a far corner and took respit under the shade of a tree. In this photo, Leang and I are sitting with his old friend from when he lived at the temple in Korat before, and the young novice that helped me pick out clothing at the Tesco-Lotus.

Vientiane

The Abbot at the temple in Vang Vieng who was just 26 years old, and younger than Leang recommended a temple to him in Vientiane that he thought would be a good fit for him to stay at.



The Abbot gave permission, and Leang settled in.

Wat Ong Teu is the largest temple in Vientiane and is a Buddhist College for novices and some monks to study at. College to them is not what College is to western people. College in Laos is high school.

In Luang Prabang the age bracket of novices tends to be primary school ages. This is because LP is has the largest and best Buddhist primary schools in Laos so families from all over the country send their sons there to learn and become novices. This has multiple benefits in Asia. The young boys get a free education and are supported by the community. Community support through a temple is important because it relieves the pressure on the family to feed another mouth. So the boys go live in a temple, gain an education, learn manners and are taught to become good men in society. Buddhists also believe that making merit improves their Karma, thus giving alms, or monetary donations to a temple is good.
In Vientiane the novices go to study high school since this is where the largest Buddhist secondary schools are located. This city has loads of Wats, just like Luang Prabang does. This is the general trend. There are alternatives, like for example, Than in LP was studying French in college there.
Not all monks stay monks. Often the case in Laos is that after the novice finishes college (HS) he disrobes and will return home to work and help his family. Many monks when they disrobe also become guides for tourists. This is because while being a monk they have the opportunity to learn English, and can make better money as a guide to foreigners. By making a higher wage, they are then able to send money home to their parents in the rural villages. So be nice to your tour guides, he may have been a monk previously.
There was an old Thai monk staying there for a few days as well. Very quiet, but approached Leang with questions about the architecture and writings on the walls of the Wat.

When Leang and I were in Pak Beng walking with the Lao the 3Km each way to the bus station they were talking and Leang asked questions about reading Lao language. He learned there are only a few slight differences, as well as with speaking. Within 3 minutes Leang was able to speak and read the language since it is so similar to Thai.


Leang spoke with the old monk and explained the writings to him.


This temple has fortune sticks in a can that you shake quickly until one falls out. That stick has a number on it, you then read the paper with the same number. The writing was in Laos, so Leang translated my fortune to me.



Basically it said that I will not be a wealthy woman but that I am clever and will find a way to make a living and be happy with that lifestyle. I will fall in love with a man that already is involved with another woman, and to be cautious of this situation and to protect myself. It said that I am in tune with natural things, and that my happiness lies in nature. It said I need to make more good merit so as to improve my Karma and protect myself from harm.



















My guest house was across the street diagonally from Wat Ong Teu, and I could sit in my window and look over at the temple's gardens.



This is the street my guesthouse was on. There was a shopping market down where that red sign on the building on the left it. I was so excited because they had underwear that actually fit a western person! I swear....Asians are so tiny....it's impossible to buy things that fit.


For breakfast I would often eat (surprise, surprise) noodle soup down the street from my guesthouse.

Leang and I spent quite a bit of time talking in the garden of the temple. It was nice and peaceful there.

Leang's blue bag that he carries I have envied since Chiang Mai. All monks have bags in this style but the writing on them is different. The bags are created during ceremonies and special events like when a temple is built or reconstructed, or an awards ceremony. The Abbot in charge then can give the bag as a gift to a monk.
Leang got his bag from a ceremony of an important monk. He is explaining the meaning of the writings to a tourist that was visiting this temple.

Blue is okay, but I really wanted one of these bags in a more girly color. Kinda impossible considering monks are not very girly hahaha.

This is a photo of a temple that I took while walking along the streets of Vientiane.
There was a really good coffee shop not far from my guest house that I loved to visit.


This is me taking a photo of my ring that I got in Ayutthaya earlier this year.




It's a Buddhist ring, and Leang explained to me that the symbols on it are Cambodian; it's ancient Khmer language that the Buddhist culture has adapted.

The evening food market where I would go to eat dinner.






In this photo I am eating sticky rice with BBQ fish. Arroy mak mak!

A monk from the Seattle in the states, arrived and would be staying at Wat Ong Teu for one day. Leang told him we planned on sight-seeing that day and invited him to come with us. So the 3 of us went out to see the sights and it was a more proper way for Leang and I to be able to travel around in public together.

We learned that this monk currently lives in Seattle, but had studied Buddhism in Cambodia and was ordained when he lived there for a year. He visits his old temple in Cambodia every year, and was only touring Laos for a few days before he would return to Cambodia for the Buddhist New Year festival which is April 12-14th.

First we went to Wat Sisaket which is the oldest original temple in Vientiane, built by King Anou in 1818.

It houses more than 2,000 small Buddha statues, brought here by devotees and are stored in small little spaces in the walls through out the temple.

We went to Wat Pha Kaew which is across the street from wat Sisaket.




It was built in 16th century to house the famous Emerald Buddha, kept here until 1788, when it was taken by the Thais. The Emerald Buddha is now on display in the Royal Temple in Bangkok (see my Bangkok entry for the photos of it).

The original temple was destroyed in 1828 and rebuilt in 1936-42 (only the doors are from the original temple). It now houses a collection of Buddha statues from all over South-East Asia. The highlight of the collection is a copy of the 'Golden Pha Bang' (The real one is Laos's most important national treasure and is stored in a bank not available for public viewing). Amongst the treasures is the 'Atom Struck Tile', taken from a temple in Hiroshima, Japan that was destroyed by the atomic bomb, dropped on the city.

We then took the local bus to Buddhist/Animism/Hindu park that was full of statues of these religions. Pretty wild!

This is a Statue that you can enter and it simulates the different levels of suffering.

This is the view from the top.

This is a giant reclining Buddha praticing laying meditation.

This is That Luang which is the holiest Stupa in Laos. Built by King Settathirat in 1566, it is unique in shape and the most important religious symbol of the country.

This is me making good merit by donating some change to the temple and the Abbot gave me a bracelet and blessed me with holy water.

On another day Leang and I visited Anousavari Monument which is the triumphal arch of Vientiane built in 1962. It was constructed out of concrete that the USA gave Laos to cponstruct an airport for the war. Laos made this monument for the people who died in wars defending the country.

At the top the view of the city is beautiful.

On the building people write their names and the date they are here. Most of names are in Laos or Thai language, but some are English as well. Leang and I both wrote out name too.

Vientiane would be the last place in Laos we would visit.

In my experience of Laos, the people are not as friendly as in the other countries I have been to in SE Asia. In Myanmar my experience was wonderful, Malaysia, same thing, the people were great, very helpful and were honest with me. Over-all Thai people are really friendly as well. In Thailand, even if they don't like you or if they have a problem with you, they are still respectful and keep control of their emotions for the most part. Because farang don’t understand what the Thai people are saying in Thai, they maybe speaking poorly about you, but they are still cordial, and this keeps things from ruining the rest of your day. Yes, it is bad manners to talk about someone badly, but lets face it, do you really want to know what they think of you during a disagreement? Or would you rather settle things, move on, have a good rest of your day and let it go?

I have seen tourists get pretty disrespectful with Thai people many times, and yet after being in Thailand as long as I had, I've only seen Thai people loose their cool 2 times, and it was a short out-burst, and totally legit on their part.

Laos people are not this way, my overall experience has been terrible with the people. Perhaps you couldn’t tell from my blog entries; I try to make the most of things and adapt and enjoy my circumstances regardless of other peoples attitudes. But if you have a disagreement, Lao people will shout at you, they will loose their tempers, because they simply don’t care as much. The people lie left and right, only care about money and will lead you astray if they feel it will benefit them.

So many times when we would take a tuk-tuk we agreed on a price in the beginning and by the time they would drop us off they tried to argue with us about the price saying that is not what they agreed to. Leang speaks Thai and Laos. We did make correct agreements. I even know my numbers in Thai and Laos and can make a deal. We wouldn’t pay more, no way! We would pay what we agreed on, but there was always an argument that would ensue, and let me tell you…I did the arguing and always told Leang to walk away. It really upset him. I hated seeing him stressed out when he was supposed to be enjoying himself on this journey. Things like this happened all the time with the Laos people. He couldn’t understand why a person would behave that way. He is a good natured Buddhist monk dedicated to a life of honesty, peace and meditation. He is not accustomed to lying, cheating and arguing. Eventually with taxis and tuk-tuk drivers I started making them write the cost down and I kept it in my little note book to show them at the end when they would drop us off as to prevent problems. I suppose it is because the country is communist and the workers pay the government money, so they struggle to make more from tourists.

I can't even count the number of times we asked someone something and they flat out would lie to Leang and I. Now I could cut them some slack if they were only lying to a tourist, still not great....but its a BUDDHIST COUNTRY, and lying to a a MONK?!?! I mean common people!!! Get a grip on your karma!

We both were appalled by this....every town, every place we visited the same thing. The exceptions to this were the really friendly Laos guy from the boat ride and the monks/novices in Luang Prabang. Every professional experience we had pretty much left a bad taste in our mouths.

Our original plan was to part ways in Vientiane; I would fly to Vietnam, and Leang would return to Thailand to help his old Abbot at the temple he lived at when he first became a monk during Songkran festival. Songkran is the Thai name for the Buddhist New Year. In Laos it’s Pii Mai. Leang’s ex-Abbot requested he come to help at the temple since there is only the Abbot and one other monk. Leang agreed before we left Chiang Mai, and this is what our plan was.

However, while in Vientiane, Leang called to his old Abbot at Wat Bonpong in Thailand and mentioned that he was with me but would be leaving Laos soon to come there. He explained who I was and the Abbot was thrilled. He invited me to come there and spend Thai New Year in their small village.

I accepted!

Woo-Hoo!!! Back to Thailand we go!!!