As some of you have discovered by now, I am still in Thailand. I am in Chiang Mai, which is in the north. My original plans were to be in Laos starting last week, spend a week or so there, then be in Vietnam by the 15th. Well...things change. So let me shed some light on the situation for all of you as to why...
I took a bus north into Chiang Mai after spending time in Bangkok, Cambodge, and central Thailand, absorbing the history and culture of these places. I really love and appreciate the experiences I have had and the memories created; irreplaceable. I feel that these things have been far away from the beaten path of normal tourism, and a journey through the unknown forest. Every turn leads to a more beautiful view of what the world has decided to show me. For this I am grateful and I must keep my eyes open and my heart astutely listening...
Sunset on the streets of Chiang Mai.
When I arrived, I was SOOO completely ready to climb-it wasn't even funny how weak I was feeling. Aside from climbing, there were other things I was looking forward to doing in Chiang Mai as well: doing a Thai cooking course, sight-seeing the temples, and I heard the elephant trekking was pretty good to. These are common things that tourists do in this town, and Chaing Mai has gained popularity because of it.
I arrived into Chiang Mai pretty late at night, and the guest house where I stayed in Sukothai recommended a place called Julie's Guest house, and I told my tuk-tuk driver that's where I wanted to go. We pulled up out front, and I gathered my belongings, and the driver left. Once through the gate I realized that the reception was closed. It was a typical hostel with dorm style rooms but also shared or private rooms. Uncertain of what to do, and not able to find anyone, I wandered the halls, and eventually discovered there was a rooftop with padded benchs and tables. I put my stuff down and found a bathroom where I brushed my teeth. I had an airline blanket that I use as a rope bag while and so I used this to sleep with on one of the benches. In the morning I was able to get a bed in a shared room, but becasue the hostel is in high demand due to teh tourist agency they also run, I was only able to book for a maximum of 6 nights. This was no problem because I was anticipating to be leaving by then anyway. The way I saw it, a bit of climbing, some trekking, a cooking course and then off to Laos I would go!
Like I said...things change.
Chiang Mai is an old fortress style city, with a brick wall that circumferences the old city. Because of the urbanization of this area, the city has far exceeded these walls, but the old town has such a great vibe and I spend the majority of my time there.
Like I said...things change.
Chiang Mai is an old fortress style city, with a brick wall that circumferences the old city. Because of the urbanization of this area, the city has far exceeded these walls, but the old town has such a great vibe and I spend the majority of my time there.
This is a view looking out from the walled city through the eastern gate called 'Tha Pea Gate'.
Photos of the town outside of the walled city with a temple in the background.After properly checking into Julie's Guesthouse, I wanted to see the city, so I hired a tuk-tuk to take me around the city.
First stop was Mornthean Temple which is being restored currently as shown in the photo. The temple area was so quiet, and completely empty aside from me and the monk that opened the gates for me.
I heard sounds coming from a side stair case leading under the temple. I made my way down, and a woman was busy preparing flowers, incense and candles for worship and also making flower necklaces to sell.As I walked around I noticed a monk sitting on the floor with a few other lay men (common people, not monks). I walked over to them to see what they were doing because there was a lot of plants and spices and other things in front of them.
As I got closer, I realized the monk had something in his mouth, and instantly I knew what it was! Beetle nut!!!
They invited me to sit with them, and so I did. Beetle Nut is often used as a local anesthetic by people with teeth problems, many elderly people use it for this reason also. I learned about it from a video on Vietnam that my roommate and I watched before my trip. I was so excited because I really wanted to try it.
From what I understood, it is used like chewing tobacco. It is wrapped in a Beetle leaf, and you put it in you mouth and chew it. When the juices mix with your saliva it turns bright red. You swallow some of the juices, but mostly you spit it out. Within a few moments your heart-rate increases due to it being a stimulant. I got a giddy feeling, and began laughing and trying to ask them questions regardless of the fact they didn't speak English. I think they got a kick outta me.
They also offered me Thai tea and palm sugar cakes as a desert to help with the bitter taste of the Beetle Nut. In my experience, aside from the initial giddiness, it made me feel the same way a pain pill would, but very short term. I felt relaxed all over, to the point that I don't think I was thinking completely clearly.
The Beetle Nut is very common in Asian countries because of its effects, and it is legally used. You can see vermilion stained teeth every where among the locals once you are able to recognize it. The monk and his friends were so hospitable to me, and it was a pleasure sitting with them. They were extremely generous and kind to me, even though I was impolite with out even knowing it. I later found out I was dressed inappropriately with a sleeveless, and too short of dress in the temple, and further, while giggling so much after trying the Beetle Nut initially, I drooled down my chin and laughed more, and slapped the monk on the knee while laughing. Big no-no. I had no idea they aren't allowed to touch women. How offensive foreigners can be with the lack of understanding of tradition and culture. They never said a thing, nor did I even know until someone later mentioned that rule. I was shocked, how understanding they were of me. What a silly American girl I can be sometimes.
Next, the driver took me to Wat Chedi Luang. In Chiang Mai, there are a handful of Buddhist universities and Chedi Luang is the largest in this area of Thailand. Many monks and novices come here to study a variety of subjects like English, Buddhist Philosophy, Business, Buddhist Culture, Humanities, Social work, and many other things.While walking around the temple, I approached an area with tables and a sign that said 'Monk Chat', where monks were sitting and talking to tourists. Two monks got up and walked toward me, but unsure of proper etiquette, I smiled and kept walking. One of them said "Excuse me, you are welcome to come and take a seat, if you would like." I laughed out loud, and he looked worried, the other monk said 'Did he say that correctly? We learned that phrase today.' I laughed harder. Now they really looked worried. GREAT! Here I am fresh into Chiang Mai, at a temple...no, no, a BUDDHIST UNIVERSITY and here I am worried about etiquette, and insulting monks! Wooo!
Probably still having residual effects from the Beetle Nut, I hurridly explained why I was laughing. I told them that aside from the tourists, that was the best English I have heard in so long, and it took me by surprise! They told met that they are still learning English, and they have a hard time forming complex sentences. I joined their table, and for the next 3 hours until 'Monk Chat' closed, we worked on English as a group. They said they all really wanted to talk with me becasue I speak so quicky, and that by talking to me, it will be so much easier to talk to toerh tourists that talk slower. I would train them to listen better, and also for them to speak faster. So for the rest of the day, I answered questions, helped them with their homework, and learned about their lives. We all became friends.
Wat Chedi Luang at night.
I had a blast with them, and they were hilarious. One of them kept making me laugh all the time, and the hours flew past while we all sat and talked. It reminded me of the easy banter and friendship I had with all my friends I made in Ton Sai...it was extremely refreshing.
They invited me back the next day, and I went, but there were many tourists talking to them that I barely had a moment with them. I had so many questions about Buddhism, and about their lives and lifestyles (as do many people). I mean really....I had no idea what it means to be a monk, let alone anything about Buddhism, and I was intrigued by them, yet half afraid of them if I over-stepping myself because of my uncertainty of etiquette, customs and tradition.
The day after was much easier...in fact, every day became easier with them. I began teaching them English, and by English, I mean advanced English. They all speak well, and simply have difficulty with structure, usage, context, prefix, and suffixes. No big deal. The students would go to their Universities in the afternoons, and in the mornings they were at their individual temples. Some of them invited me to their temples to work on English more, and I agreed.
Photo of Wat Phan Aon from the city street, its so beautiful.
The first week flew past, and I still hadn't climbed or done any sight-seeing in this area. Strange...I didn't feel that I was missing out, I had found something much more rewarding. They were teaching me about meditation, Buddhism, and showing me how to turn the chaotically flowing river within myself into a more peaceful stream. By being around them, my waters were calming.
Monks have labels before their names called Phra. In most western cultures we have Mr., Mrs., Ms. Phra is the same thing, but it acknowledges the fact that this person we are referring to is a holy man, a monk.
One on the main students I worked with, and the one I initially met at Chedi Luang, Phra Sanan; gave me a handbook on Buddhism. He and I banter back and forth like brother and sister continually. That noted, while working with him at his temple-Wat Phan Aon-I always would ask him what he had in his bag, and if he brought me any gifts. It was a joke because monks have nothing. They have some things, but not like we have. Yes, they have cell phones, and some have computers for school work, as well as books. I asked Phra Sanan almost daily if he would give me a book on Buddhism. I told him, 'You're a monk, you don't need books on Buddhism, you already know how to be a Buddhist!'. Again, a joke; basically I wanted to see his books so I could go buy one; there are so many, I didn't know where to begin, or which ones are better for me.
After that first week of working with him at Wat Phan Aon, and meeting students at Wat Chedi Luang, he approached my table at Chedi Luang and sat down. He looked at me very seriously, and looked around the area we were sitting. He then removed a long, legal sized handbook from his shoulder bag and held it out to me over the table. Before letting go, he pulled it back to his chest and said 'You have until 8am tomorrow to have this, since you most likely will not read it that quickly, you should get a copy made. Down the street, a print shop will do it. It costs 40 Bhat, you may have to pay more since its now 5pm, and they usually complete the jobs by 10am the next day. See what they say. Put it in your bag, take care of it....please. Now go and hurry!' He then got up from my table, and walked quickly away and left to head home to his temple. I put it quickly in my bag, got my bicycle and made my way to the shop. I paid a little more, and they had it finished for me by 7:30 the next day. I sped across town to his temple and returned it. He then explained. It's not that people are not allowed to read the handbook; they are. It is just that they are given this handbook and are supposed to always keep it, work on it, and practice it. They are not supposed to give it away. If I lost it, or something happened to it, he would have to try to attempt to get a new one from his Abbot. Therefore, he would be looked down upon, and reprimanded for his carelessness. He entrusted me greatly with its safe-keeping. I was honored.
I have no photo of him becasue he requested that I won't take any, as he is against his photo being taken.
I began spending a great deal of time at Wat Phan Aonn with Phra Sanan, and a handful of other monks, a few temple boys, and one other really amazing monk named Phra Leang.This is a photo of Phra Leang on the left in the orange robe, and a much older, but less experienced monk from Bangkok that came to speak with Leang about meditation.
Phra Leang, to me, is the true definition of what a monk should be. Never before have I spoken with someone, or been in the presence of someone where I felt I should bow before them. Never have I not felt I was at least equal to another. Never before have I felt that someone is so pure as he. I know not how to explain how spectacular he is, or what a great spiritual teacher he has been. Phra Leang is just about to turn 27, but he is wise beyond his years. He became a novice at 17, a monk at 20, and has been one since. That's almost 10 years of practicing. He is naturally a quiet man, but when he speaks, everyone listens. The first time I met him, John, another western-man, and I sat for about 6 hours with him in the temple's garden and listened and learned from him.
He has taught me much about Buddhism, meditaiton, mindfullness, and tranquility.
He spends weeks every year meditating in the forsets of Thailand, when he is not in school at the other university at Wat Suan Dok. His English is incredible, he reads so many books. In his room, he doesn't use his bed, he sleeps instead on a mat on the floor, and uses the platform of his bed as a bookcase for his 100+ books on meditation, Buddhism, inner peace, as well as his educational books. The man oozes of tranquility. He is a trickle from a mountain spring, while compared to him, I am as rapidly moving and chaotic as a waterfall (as is almost anyone, compared to him).
He invited John and I to a special graduation ceremony at Wat Suan Dok for a group of Cambodian monks that are studying in Chiang Mai. John and Leang have been friends for a few years now, and John comes to learn about meditation from him every year for about a month. I was honoured to be invited to such an important event for these monks.
Phra Leang is from Cambodia as well, and the monks graduating are his friends; this is a very special occasion for them. It was an amazing experience.
We had a mid-day lunch break, where they provided John and I with luch (how nice of them!) and a peaceful quiet settled over the room as the monks sat on the mats on the floor eating, while John and I sat seperate from them on the other side of the room.
At the close of the ceremony, the younger students: years 1, 2, and 3, gave the graduating 4th year students bracelets made of string. This is a tradition amoung monks to give bracelets as a token from someone that cares for them. It is to wish them luck and safe well-being on their future paths. The monks recieving as well as the ones giving were so happy during this event.
Duing this graduation celebration John and I were the only 'farang' (forigners), and the monks actually thanked us for coming saying it was lucky for them. They allowed us to also give them bracelets, and they were so happy to recieve them! One of them after came to me to thank me again saying it is very rare for foreigners to attend ceremonies for them, and we will bring them luck on their future paths. It was so cute, through out the entire day they kept taking photos of me and John...mostly me since some of them know John. I think it was special for them to have foreigners come, let alone a woman. I'm sure all the monks have dozens of photos of me. What a change to have them photo a westerner!!
The next set of photos are from a day of sight-seeing with 2 of the temple boys from Wat Phan Aon. Temple boys live at the temples and help take care of the place. They come from small villages where there families are very poor and have a difficult time caring for them. They come to live at the temples and can attend the cities pubic schools.
Wat Phan Aon is a larger temple, so there are 6 boys here, some in middle school, some in high school. They take care of the grounds at the temple, do chores, maintenance and assist the monks.
This is a photo of myself, and the temple boys; Ladee, and Peter in a taxi-truck to Bo-Sang. Although they live only 20 minutes away from this neighboring town, they never have been. When I was bargaining for a Taxi price, they became so worried because they thought I was trying to get a cheaper price because I didn't have enough money. Ladee pulled me aside and said that they didn't have to come with me if I couldn't afford it. I told him the process of bartering and how it works, and why. I explained that no prices are fixed, and you don't have to automatically take the price they tell you. They had no idea about this system! Later I discovered many of the monks didn't have a clue about this system either, but I explained it to them, hopefully it will help them save money in the future.Can you imagine paying whatever price they tell you here....sheesh, I'd be broke in a day!
This is Bo-Sang, a village outside of Chiang Mai that is famous for having the worlds highest production of parasol umbrellas.
Visiting Bo-Sang was on the top of my list for reasons to come to Chiang Mai. I really wanted to buy a parasol, and I did.
My reason for wanting one so badly is because some day (not sure when), I will find some guy (doesn't matter who), I will go to some lake (doesn't matter where), take a canoe (which the man will row), and I will sit there twirling my umbrella, and he will chat to me (doesn't matter about what). Yep, that's my plan for my umbrella! hahahaha! Can't wait!
This was a long long staircase leading up to a temple on one of the mountains around Chiang Mai. It was beautiful.
Elephant parking...yep...right next to the motorbikes.
One of my many days spent reading, writing and relaxing in the garden of Wat Phan Aon.
Phra Leang with help from his Cambodian friends at his university hosts a Dharma talks every Sunday afternoon to tourists wanting to learn more about Buddhism and also about the life styles of monks.
A couple of the monks had questions about grammar and pronunciation of words before they were going to speak, so in this photo we were going over a few things. I had no idea it was being taken, one of them grabbed my camera and was playing around with it. I had some pretty silly photos later I discovered.
But a few good photos too, like this one where a group of us were hanging out before the talk began.
This is a photo of the monk on the left talking while the other two on the right are meditating.
The Sunday Dharma talk is a very successful event, because on Sunday evenings there is also the walking street market throughout the city of Chiang Mai so many people visit the temples beforehand.
The Sunday market has a huge variety of food, massage stands every hundred meters or so, and loads of shopping where you can buy goods from the hill-tribe villagers that come into the city to sell the things that make at this event every week.
Flip-flops are the preferred foot-wear in Asia...everyone wears them here.
So many choices of what to eat for dinner!
Sushi is cheap, cheap, cheap at the market, 5B-10B a piece. That's about 15-25 cents, and it was so yummy!
This is my favorite bakery in Chiang Mai, I bought so many pumpkin muffins here. I think one week I bought 9 packages of 6 muffins; which I then handed out at alms to the monks the next morning. Some of the monks I work with at Wat Chedi Luang were lucky enough to get some of them, and loved them. Every few days after that they would ask me if I had been to the bakery lately. Hahahaha, guess they enjoyed the nice alternitave from the commonly handed-out sticky rice.
After a long day of walking through the Sunday market, a foot massage just feels so divine!
I have been given a Thai name also...
Heather is very difficult for Asians to say, and they always end up saying header or hetter.
When I was at Chedi Luang one day and a group of monks were introduced to me one of them got frusterated when he kept trying to say my name correctly. After about 3 minutes of us going back-and-forth with him trying to say it, and me correcting it Phra Sanan pulled out his English/Thai dictionary. He said he doesn't know if it will be in there, but for me to check. So I looked it up. Sure enough it was in there. Turns out the direct translation of Heather into thai
is 'dton mai'. It means 'tree'. Other dictionaries sometimes say 'dok mai' which mean 'flower'.
Thus they began calling me 'Dton Mai' since they say I am much stronger than a flower, but more of a Dton Mai. They really worry about me traveling alone, and riding my bicycle around after dark. So sweet.
The monks are not the only ones that picked this up, since I had been in Chiang Mai so long, visiting the same noodle soup stand, the same bicycle shop where I rented my bike, and the same internet place, community picked up the nickname too. However after many of them learned that I was always at the temples teaching monks, they all began to call me a variation to Dton Mai. They changed it to Dton Sai Thong.
The Sai Thong is a holy tree made of gold. It is often dipicted in Buddhist art that adorns the temples. In this photo a huge mural of a Sai Thong tree covers the entire back wall of the temple. The Buddha often would sit under a Dton Sai Thong to meditate.
They say I am the monk's tree.
My time was coming to an end in Thailand, as my visa was almost finished. I needed to leave before incruing fines. I was supposed to head to Laos the next day. Phra Sanan was sad to see me have to go, and the night before I was to leave, he gave me a hand fan. He said it is so hot out, that I need to take care of myself. I was touched. He has nothing, yet he managed to buy me a going-away gift. Another monk made me a hand bracelet for good luck and safe travels. The temple boy 'Ladee' also gave me a bracelet that he always wore, saying he has nothing else a girl may want, but I should have it as a memento from him. Phran Leang bought me a scarf to wear over my shoulders at the temples I will visit, and to keep me warm on the buses. He has also given me 2 books, a CD of monk music (hahaha) that he made for me which includes chanting and meditation music. Overall, I really have grown strongly attached to these men, and they have cared about me as family would...it was going to be so hard to leave. It seems that this is a reoccuring trend when I am about to leave somewhere in Thailand.
Late that night, I decided to stay. I just wasn't ready to leave. My dad has always told me to be true to myself, and listen to my instincts. I knew it wasn't time for me to go yet, and if I leave, I would regret for a long time.
I decided I would go to Myanmar to renew my visa for Thailand and be granted 2 more weeks in Thailand that I could spend in Chiang Mai. I called the monks in the morning and told them the news. Word traveled fast and soon some of my students from the other temples called me to ask if it was true. They were so excited, and so was I.
More to come...
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